* The full kit contains wool, needles, plus a chart & instructions for one desired pattern and includes the optional pattern book by Gladys Thompson.

** The basic kit contains wool, needles, plus a chart & instructions for one desired pattern but NOT the pattern book.

Prices for large or smaller kits are available on request.

When ordering a kit please specify the colour of wool required
and the exact size.

If initially unsure of which pattern to choose, this can be sent for later.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR KNITTING A GANSEY

AREA DESIGN:          [PLEASE NOTE: This is a sample: all the relevant details will be included on the actual sheet of instructions included with the kit.]

SIZE:                         TENSION:     8 stitches to the inch 

Cast on ___ sts evenly over 4 size 2.5mm needles using the wool double in the thumb method. K2, P2 for ___, keeping the wool double for the first five rounds. Add __ sts after the welt.

Knit _____ rounds of plain knitting in which you establish two purl sts on each side of the gansey. This is a seam line and runs up the body and down the underside of the arms, forming the basis for the gussets under the arm and the point of division for knitting the armholes. The pattern now begins; note the first and last row of stitches on the design chart are the two purl sts mentioned above. Usually, the complete pattern is on ___ rows.

Work the pattern from bottom left hand corner of chart, until work measures ____. Note: Dark squares – purl, white squares – knit. Work ___st cable every ___ rows as shown by line on chart. Then begin the increase for the gussets under the arm. Continuing in pattern on the next round, increase ___ knit sts in the centre of the ___ purl sts on each side of the body. This is the beginning of the gusset. Increase ___ knit st each side of the centre ___ knit sts on the next round and every ____ round till gusset is ___ sts wide. 

At this point divide for the front and back to continue in pattern on two needles by slipping the gusset stitches on to a holder, also slip stitches for the back on to a holder. Continue to work the front in pattern until the work measures the nearest full pattern to ____, keeping the outside purl stitch and single knit stitch as the armhole edge. Place the centre ____ sts for the neck on a holder and stitches for one shoulder on a holder. Knit the other shoulder strap in ___ rows knit and ___ rows purl for ____ rows. Put these on a holder and repeat this for the other shoulder (this forms the neck shaping). Repeat for back then graft the stitches together on the inside of the shoulders. 

NECK.  Pick up evenly the ___ sts each from front and back together with the stitches from the shoulder edge (____ sts in all). K1, P1, rib for neck worked into the back of all stitches for ____. Cast off loosely ribwise using wool doubled. 

SLEEVES.  Pick up evenly around armhole ____ sts including gusset. Purl ___ st each side of gusset, that is, the picked up stitches. Work ____ full patterns down (from the sleeve chart), keeping the centre stitch of the diamond directly on the shoulder seam. Note, the remaining stitches between the edge of the sleeve pattern and the sleeve seam to be in stocking stitch. Decrease ___ st on either side of the seam stitches every ___ round until the gusset is worked out. Then, remembering to keep the ___ purl sts for the seam, decrease every ___ round until the sleeve measures ____, then back to every ___ round until ___, then every ___ round until ___. Work stocking stitch to the required length allowing a minimum of ____ of rib. Cast off in rib with wool doubled. Average sleeve length ___.